Wet Basement?

Our View of Basement Seepage

Given the right condition, any basement can leak. No one can predict if a basement will leak in the future, and in many cases, it's not even possible to tell if a basement has leaked in the past. Basement seepage is the result of water concentration along an exterior foundation wall - which then seeks an entry through foundation cracks. It's important to eliminate the cause, not just seal the entry point. Over time, neglected moisture intrusion problems can create significant structural and indoor air quality problems. However, the majority of wet basement problems can be eliminated, or at least reduced to a tolerable level, by improvements to exterior grading and proper performance of gutters and downspouts. The most common cause of wet basements is poor surface and roof drainage. In fact, our experience indicates the vast majority of wet basements are simply caused by surface rain water from improper drainage or slope. Keep in mind, a 1,000 square foot home with an attached garage will have over 1,100 gallons run from it in a one-inch rain. That's a tremendous amount of water. Imagine a downpour on a home with blocked gutters. Conditions change, foundations move, gutters become blocked, landscape changes, and extended periods of drought or rain occur -- all of which can cause changes in the basement. Wet basements are a major concern -- but shouldn't necessarily kill a deal.

While basement seepage is a critical issue, often simple remedies are available and are well within the scope of most homeowners/buyers. Not only do our inspectors fully examine the basement and explore any potential defects , we present this information in a manner that helps our clients keep the issue in perspective.

For basement seepage, we recommend the following before seeking a
specialized contractor:

Make sure the land around the house slopes in the right direction. This can require as little
as a couple of bags of topsoil or as much as a new driveway.

Pay attention to localized low spots like gardens, window wells and the space between
sidewalks and foundation walls. Be sure to check the grading below decks and porches
as it is often bad.

Examine gutters and downspouts. Gutters must be sloped properly to drain. Downspouts
must be frequent enough (every 35 feet) to prevent overflow in heavy rain.

Look where downspouts discharge. If they go into the ground, the below-ground portion
of the drain may be broken or plugged. This almost guarantees a wet basement in the
vicinity of the downspout.

Malfunctioning integral gutters can be very serious. The water leaking out of the gutters
usually ends up in the structure, causing rot and other damage. It is best to have downspouts
discharge onto the lawn -- preferably six feet from your home.

BPG Inspection / Home Warranty
Scheduling 800-285-3001
www.minnesotahomeinspectors.com

Our View of Being Cool

Cooling systems can be a major concern for most people because they are complicated and expensive. Understanding how these systems are intended to work can help buyers and sellers keep their cool during negotiations. Not only do our inspectors visually inspect and run the heating and cooling systems, we present our findings in a manner that helps clients keep things in perspective.

Concerns about inadequate cooling are especially common during the hot summer months when temperatures and humidity are both high. Most systems are designed to lower the humidity while maintaining a 15 to 20 degree differential between the indoor ambient temperature and the air being re-circulated through the system. If this differential and reduced humidity is achieved, the house should feel relatively comfortable. Variances in this differential could indicate potential problems that should be explained and further evaluated.

A Breath of Fresh Air about Common Problems Cooling systems need to breathe fresh air - just like we do. Most manufacturers recommend changing filters at least every three months to avoid operating systems with plugged or missing air filters -- which cause approximately 40% of all service calls. Also, be sure to keep the exterior component condensing coils clean using either a yard blower or garden hose -- dirty coils can lower cooling efficiency over 25%. During the inspection, the system is checked for signs of current or past maintenance neglect including an evaluation of refrigerant lines from the outdoor unit. It's important to make sure the exterior component of the cooling system has plenty of room for air circulation and is secured to a flat level platform. The component helps to remove heat and humidity from the home while bushes and vines that are too close restrict air flow -- making the system work harder than needed and potentially reducing the system's normal life span.

A Bigger Problem - or a Smaller One

A more serious problem may be present if the system has not been sized appropriately for the home. Cooling load calculations can be difficult and encompass many factors like the size of the area to be cooled, amount of insulation in the house, temperature and humidity ranges for the area, amount and type of glass used in windows, and other exterior factors. Some contractors and many well-intentioned homeowners add or replace systems that are not properly sized for the home. Determining cooling capacity is outside the scope of an ASHI or CREIA inspection.

A cooling system that is too large may cool the house quickly but will cycle off before the house can be adequately dehumidified - resulting in a cold and clammy environment. In addition, systems that are too large will cycle on and off more frequently - potentially causing premature compressor failure. Properly sized systems run longer to achieve the same drop in temperature, leaving a cooler and drier environment. This also means fewer equipment stops and starts, and therefore, a potentially longer life.

Homeowner Recommendations

In addition to our thorough inspections, we provide 12 months of our Extended Advice so our clients always have a direct source for accurate information about their homes. Clients even receive a customized maintenance plan to make sure they stay cool

all season long.

We’re working to be your expert -- we’re working to earn your business.

The Importance of C.L.U.E. Reports

If you want to know more about a home's history of property damage, you can ask the seller to provide you with a copy of his or her C.L.U.E., or Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange report from LexisNexis at www.choicetrust.com. These are the very same reports most major insurance companies use when a new policy is written on a home.

According to Traci Reese of Brian P. Reister Insurance Agency they are seeing numerous new policy applications where recent claims have been made and in many cases the repairs have not been made. In these cases policies cannot be written.

As an inspector I've seen numerous houses in the past few years with obvious storm damage to the exterior. In these cases I always advise my clients to obtain a C.L.U.E. report from either the seller or their own insurance agent. In the majority of these cases there is documentation that a previous payment and claim has been made.

If a recent claim has been paid but the repairs have not been made, be prepared to negotiate the repairs with the selling party before an insurance policy can be issued.

www.minnesotahomeinspectors.com

Poison Ivy - The Chameleon of Plants

Poison Ivy, Toxicodendron radicans, has many leaflet forms. Sometimes the edges will be almost smooth (Photo 1), but there can be few (Photo 2) or many edge serrations (Photo 3).

The defining characteristics, however, are common in all versions:

• Compound leaves with three leaflets
• Symmetrical center leaflet serrations
• Larger serrations at the bottom sides of the two lower leaflets than on their upper sides
• Upper leaflet stalk is longer than stalks on the two lower leaflets

The vines can vary in color from green to red. Greyish white berries can be found on the plants and birds eat these berries without any problems. Humans, however, can be extremely sensitive to urushiol, the oil in the plant.

Professionals should remove this plant, but if you choose to remove it, we recommend first spraying with a systemic plant killer, such as Brush-B-Gon. After it dies back, wear
protective clothing and gloves, and place the plants in sealed plastic bags for disposal - urushiol is still present. Discard the gloves and wash remaining clothes, using a hot water cycle. Urushiol remains wherever located for a long time, i.e., for several years. Never burn this plant - the oil is in the smoke.

Radon Testing and the Real Estate Transaction

“Handling radon properly may enhance the real estate transaction - rather than being a deal killer.”

- Ralph Holmen, Associate GeneralCounsel,

National Associate of Realtors® (NAR)

We agree. Handling radon properly enhances the real estate transaction.

Since radon is here to stay and it is a health risk we, as professionals, want to help our clients understand radon and their options. Radon has existed since the beginning of time and occurs in the ground naturally from the breakdown in uranium in the soil. The colorless, odorless gas that is drawn into our homes through cracks in the foundation and is undetectable to humans. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) high radon can be found in homes in all 50 states.


What are the Health Risks?

According to EPA estimates, radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer next to smoking. Radon is responsible for about 21,000 lung cancer deaths every year. On January13, 2005, Dr. Richard H. Carmona, the U.S. Surgeon General issued a national health advisory on radon. To understand if a home is at risk of high radon concentrations we recommend radon testing by a professional.

Which Homes Need Testing?

High radon can be found in homes of all types: old homes, new homes, drafty homes, insulated homes, homes with basements and homes without. Even homes right next door to each other can have different concentrations of radon. According to the EPA, elevated levels of radon-- more that 4.0 pCi/L (pico curies per liter) have been found in every state. Recommending a radon test by a professional will protect buyers both from the potential health effects of living in a home with high radon and from the financial impact of paying for a mitigation system should their home test high when they sell it.


How Does Radon Testing Work?

A testing device is set in the home to monitor the radon concentration over a period of time (usually 2-5 days). Then, the results are analyzed by a professional. Radon testing is not obtrusive to the homeowner, the testing device is typically placed an area that won’t impact the current owners. Normal exit and entry to the home is permitted during testing, but the testing professional will advise the homeowner of simple steps to take for “closed house conditions” to ensure the radon test is con- ducted properly. An expert will evaluate your test and will advise you of the radon level in your home.


What if the Radon Test Indicates a High Concentration?

The good news is that even if a home has high radon levels, radon mitigation is relatively simple. Qualified radon mitigation contractors can install a radon mitigation system that provides a permanent solution. A typical radon mitigation system includes a suction point that addresses the soil under the structure. A pipe is sealed in the home, which forms a suction point. the pipe is routed out of the structure and terminated about the eave line. A continuously operating fan is placed in the pipe outside the living area. The fan maintains suction on the soil under the structure, thus preventing the structure from drawing the radon indoors. Typical radon mitigation systems can cost between $800 and $2500 depending on your home’s structure and the contractor selected to perform the work.

For more information about radon, call us. We know radon.
Minnesota Home Inspectors 651-489-4633

Inspecting A New Home During The Construction Process Makes Sense

Building a Home is a Complicated Process

Even though most builders are quality-oriented, mistakes can sometimes happen simply because there are so many steps and people involved in building a home. Most builders welcome periodic review of their construction process by qualified inspectors -- everyone wants to make sure the home will provide lasting value.

Consumer Advocates Recommend Inspections

Many consumer advocates recommend an independent inspection during various phases of the construction process. An independent inspector who works directly for the homebuyer will add considerable peace of mind and can help when problems arise.

Why Choose BPG?

We have inspectors who are specifically trained in new building methods and evaluating specific phases of the construction process. Our inspectors help both the home buyer and builder keep issues in the proper perspective -- sometimes it’s a major defect and sometimes it just talking through a particular construction method to make sure it’s acceptable.

If you plan to work with an independent inspector during your construction project, make sure you negotiate this with your builder up front. In many cases, your builder will require your inspector to be code-certified or hold certification with the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI®) or another professional affiliate, and carry the proper E&O and General Liability insurance.

Normally, you’ll want to hire an inspector before construction begins to make at least three visits during construction. Your inspector will be looking at the property to ensure it meets code standards as well as manufacturer recommendations and installation requirements. Manufacturer recommendations are crucial because if they are not followed, it can void the warranty due to improper installation.

Foundation (Pre-Slab) - A Solid Foundation is Crucial

Typically this inspection is performed before the slab or basement walls are poured. Your inspector will look at the site excavation, footings, foundation walls (or slab), backfill and compaction. Careful attention at this stage can prevent future issues with moisture intrusion and structure due to improper grading, soil compaction, backfill or footing installation.

Pre-Drywall Stage - No X-Ray Vision Required

Many issues can be identified before being covered with drywall; if these issue are not discovered they may not manifest into actual problems until after your builder warranty period has expired. In many cases, it is much less costly (for both you and your builder) to have problems addressed during this stage. During the pre-drywall stage, your inspector will be looking at the structural walls, floors and roof for the quality of framing; truss installation; AC / heating ductwork; all above grade plumbing; wiring and roof surfaces and flashing.

Final Inspection- The Big Picture

The final inspection should occur just before your pre-closing “walk-thru” so the home will be complete with operating utilities and all appliances. During this inspection, your inspector will carefully examine any structural changes made since the prior phase and will complete a final review of the electrical, plumbing and mechanical systems.

We’ll be there throughout the construction process (and beyond) as your trusted adviser.
www.minnesotahomeinspectors.com

Our View of Knob and Tube Wiring

Knob and tube wiring was installed in homes until the 1940's. The name is derived from the small, round, ceramic wire mounts that look like knobs and the ceramic tubes which protect the wire when it's run adjacent or through wooden studs and joists. It is a two-wire system with no ground wire; the hot and neutral wires are run separately to each outlet, switch and fixture. The connections are typically not in junction boxes unless newer wiring has been added to the circuit; thus, knob and tube wiring connections are visible splices that are soldered together and wrapped in electrical tape. Knob and tube wiring was and still is a functional and safe system when maintained properly with appropriate fuse and/or breaker protection.

The Need for More Power

Knob and tube wiring was used before WW II because homes did not require as many circuits or as much power as we need today. It was typically used with 30 or 60-amp service. Today's home is usually built with 200-amp service. The wire size dictates the circuit capacity. Third wire grounding throughout the home was not required until 1965, thus local code occupancy requirements are the same for knob and tube as non-grounded Romex and NM cable. Most of these issues are resolved with GFCI devices.

How to Proceed

We know of no improvement requirements if the knob and tube wiring is installed and used properly. However a significant number of insurance companies now consider it unsafe and a higher risk. They may decline coverage or require a higher premium. We suggest you talk with your home insurance carrier regarding their policy requisites. Based on our inspection experience, special attention should be taken to ensure :

• The wire and insulation has not become brittle due to overheating
• Appropriate fuse or breaker protection has been installed
• Repair or remodeling installed proper connections, junction boxes and sizing
• Proper circuit protection or connections were used to combine new and old wiring

We also suggest that you replace knob and tube wiring whenever possible as part of any remodeling project in order to make the transition to grounded circuits. As always, only fully qualified persons should perform any electrical work if some form of upgrade is desired.